Sayulita, Mexico
It's a jungle out there. Literally.
Dear Travelers,
This week I thought I’d send you an article that I wrote that has yet to publish. I have to wait for publications on Medium to publish my stuff and sometimes I get antsy. I just want it out into the world now that I’m finished with it. So, I’m doing that today.
I made this trip to Sayulita ten years ago but honestly, it feels quite recent. It was a great trip but there were definitely some hiccups. Just shenanegans of all sorts. I hope you enjoy it.
Have a great weekend, stay cool, and try not to fill up your calendar just because you can. Take a moment to look at the stars or stare out the window. You will not be disappointed.
Peace,
Kit
Sayulita - Crown Jewel of the Riviera Nayarit
We struggled to follow the map that the hotel had given us. It was a shortcut into town we were told. We were supposed to walk down the beach, away from everything that looked like civilization, turn right at the palapa, and head into the jungle. Um, okay, I guess.
“What the hell is a palapa?” My husband asked. I should’ve known these directions were not the best. Also, a palapa is a beach umbrella typically with a thatched covering on top. Like, an umbrella wearing a grass skirt.
Up into the jungle, we went. We hiked up to the top of the hill and pretty much lost any sight of a trail. We were also sweating. Like, cartoon sweating. Our clothes were completely wet. We looked like we had just walked out of the ocean wearing a full outfit. We stopped, stared at each other, and began laughing at how much we were sweating. It was crazy.
We finally ran into a person. I think he was a farmer up there. We greeted him and I asked where Sayulita was with my very basic, limited knowledge of Spanish. He was very kind and he gave us directions. By this point, we were starting to think that the hotel we had chosen may have been a little too remote. There were a few other reasons also.
Online vs. reality
“Did they give you a machete and a roll of toilet paper when you checked in?” — My brother. Who is not a comedian.
I found this amazing-looking resort online. Private beaches, little hut-type open-air rooms that are dotted along the coast. Beautiful blue water. When we got there, it was all of those things. However, we were not prepared for the heat, the land crabs, and the darkness.
A private beach might sound nice but it is so boring. There is no people-watching to do because there are just the other guests. There are only a handful of other people there and you already know who you’re not going to hang out with. So, it’s super boring. The staff there was rad though. We could talk to them all day.
The tropical forest is dark. It’s not something you think about but it is. Little huts in the forest? Cute! Yes, cute but dark. Like, all-day dark. We had no concept of time. After two days with the land crabs and the heat (which lasts 24 hours and is relentless), we were done. We apologized to the hotel, they gave us some money back, and we found an air-conditioned condo in the center of town. We were giddy. We could also now walk down a few blocks and be in the center of town. It was perfect.
Getting there
The center of town is small. Sayulita is a small beach town. There are locals, for sure, but also a lot of ex-pats. People from all over the world have made this place their home and they cater to the abundance of tourists. After two days of walking the city square, everyone knew us. “Hey, San Diego!” they would shout as we walked by. Man, I love Mexico. People love to connect with you and learn about where you are from. It’s really cool.
To get your head around where Sayulita is located in Mexico, start with Puerto Vallarta. That’s the airport that you will need to fly into to get there.
Living in Southern California makes flights out of Tijuana, Mexico an option. That’s what we did. We crossed the border and jumped on a flight from TJ to Puerto Vallarta. To make this trip work you have to be okay with international airports and the fact that rules there may be very different from the US.
As you head through to get your baggage screened, sometimes the screening staff will just open your suitcase and rummage through. Let them. This is their country, they can do whatever they want with your stuff. Don’t bring anything you care about losing either.
After arriving in Puerto Vallarta, we crossed the street and hopped on a local bus to get to Sayulita. It was cheap, crowded, and bumpy. My kinda ride. The bus ride takes about an hour. We got dumped off at the edge of town. There is a main road you can walk to get to the center of town.
If you travel like this, you have to be okay with carrying all your stuff yourself. Pack as light as possible. Having a basic grasp of the language is helpful as well. I don’t speak Spanish but I know a few basics and can get by a little.
What to do
Sayulita is well known for its surfing. The area also caters to new surfers. There are surf schools and board rentals galore. You can also hike, go horseback riding, snorkel, SUP, and the like. You can also just lie on the beach and people-watch which is what we did most of the time.
The water is usually calm and good for swimming. The waves are good for learning how to surf. The center of town has a lot to offer in the way of food, drinks, and shopping. The people are warm, friendly, and they genuinely want you to have a good time.
It’s hot. It’s tropical. Grab a drink and mix with the locals or meet other tourists. Walk down the main street a little way and find the best lunch you’ve ever had and also the hottest hot sauce — watch out. In all fairness, they did warn us.
Takeaway
Mexico is a great place to vacation. There is just no pressure. I have spent a lot of time in different parts of Mexico growing up. We would camp near the beach or rent a house. When you strike up a conversation with a local, you always learn something. The food is out of sight and Mexico is home to some great breweries as well (I’m looking at you, Modelo).
Sayulita was well worth the journey. It takes some effort in planning and getting there but the small town has a lot of heart. If you surf, definitely go. And if you don’t, definitely go. It’s just one of those magical little towns. Bright exterior paint and dirt roads. Roosters roam the streets.
Yes, there is heat. Yes, there are land crabs. But that’s what travel is all about. It’s about getting out of your comfort zone and trying something new. You will meet people you never could’ve imagined and they will spark new ideas in you. Get out there. Swim, surf, rest. A tropical drink after a long day of being by the ocean is a small gift of life.
Watch the sun set over a small stretch of Mexican beach and you’ll see what I mean.
What a great description of a unique place and a real life travel experience!
Loved your article! We're moving there in August from Southern California! Just wondering ... did the private beach happened to be located in Mandarina? My husband and I are staying there two nights for our anniversary, and your article gave me pause!